Abnormally high waves due to spectral instability of surface waves

Аннотация

The outcomes of our laboratory experiments corroborate hypotheses advanced earlier, dedicated to the mechanism of origination of abnormally high waves under the development of spectral instability. We have clarified the characteristics of spectral instability development including the dependences of the value of the downshift of the spectral maximum and distances at which it occurs on the steepness of waves and width of the initial spectrum. In addition, we have revealed the dependence of the number of abnormal waves on the fraction of spectral energy transferred to the low-frequency range and on the stage of spectral instability development. Our results offer the basis for creating a statistical model of the origination of abnormally high waves.